South Island Wargaming, New Zealand.

South Island Wargaming, New Zealand.

 
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 Post subject: Chipping Tutorial.
PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 10:48 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2012 10:50 am
Posts: 25
What you'll need:

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The tweezers are reverse. you push on them to open rather than close. VERY useful. Foam is from a blister, and our friends (recently renamed (oh no!) chardron Granite and Boltgun Metal.

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Tear off a piece of the foam about 1/2 cm long and wide.

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Fold it up so that it becomes a kind of puffy sphere and clamp it into your tweezers. You can experiment with this, going for different looks to get different effects. I've found that this shape works best for weathering hard edges like on the rhino.

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tap it into the top of your paint, then blot out a fair chunk of it. You want enough paint on the foam that you're getting the scatter pattern at the right edge of the paint blotch on the paper. Now you're ready to chip!

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IMPORTANT: Using an up and down motion ONLY, tap the foam onto your model. Having any side to side motion will streak the paint and ruin the effect. Start with very little force, take a look and see if you like the effect. Like anything in painting, it's better to build it up over a couple of coats than it is to smear it on in one pass.


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Hitting all the raised surfaces that might have gotten caught on a branch / rock / alien limb, tap around the piece until you're happy with coverage. It's important to get all the edges that are likely to have been worn over time as if you leave one completely bear it stands out quite a bit.

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Take your bolt gun metal and repeat the procedure. Here there's a few things to note:

1) blot your foam on the paper more than the chardron granite. you want even less paint on it.
2) only apply boltgun where there's a heavy build up of chardron granite. You want this to look like it's warn through the primer (chardron) right to the bear metal

Note: I think that in the 41st century, they've got rusting metals licked as a problem therefore I don't try and make my stuff look rusty. If you do want to achieve that look, instead / in addition to the boltgun, go over the same spots again with Dark Flesh and Tin Bits (two separate applications), maybe a little hot orange as well. That gives it a really nice patina. You may have to go back over with chardon afterwards to pull back the effect a bit.

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Going easy on the boltgun, dab away. It's great because chardon and boltgun are so close to the same colour, it's only when the light catches the metallic paint that you really notice it.

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This is what a little too much boltgun looks like.

Optional Next Steps:

I like to take my highlight colour from the base coat (in this case hot orange) and with a very fine brush highlight some of the chips by painting thin lines on the bottom of the chardon patch. This applies mostly to larger patches. I'll post some photos when I'm done this step (this looks particularly great on power armor)

I also like to give the whole thing a wash afterwards to tone down the shinyness and unify it all. Either a devlan mud or a badab black applied only where there's chipping looks good. I'm going to try and oil wash of Burnt Sienna on these models.

There you have it. Simple, fun and very effective.


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 Post subject: Re: Chipping Tutorial.
PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 9:08 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 19, 2012 9:34 pm
Posts: 417
Location: Christchurch
Thanks for the tutorial! Very simple, useful and really nice looking model when done :D


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 Post subject: Re: Chipping Tutorial.
PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 11:54 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2011 9:27 pm
Posts: 677
Location: Zharr Naggrund
Thanks blaise. It looks so simple!

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